This application is a 371 of PCT/EP02/13927 filed Dec. 9, 2002.
This invention relates to highly concentrated pearlizing concentrates with a high content of pearlizing waxes and contents of anionic surfactants and special emulsifier/polyol ester mixtures and to a process for their production.
Pearlizers are a long-established and proven medium for providing cosmetic products with an attractive, rich and interesting appearance. An overview of modern pearlizing formulations was published by A. Ansmann and R. Kawa in Parf. Kosm. 75, 578 (1994). Besides having to possess the required properties, such as high brilliance, good particle fineness and high compatibility with other auxiliaries, particularly highly concentrated formulations intended for subsequent processing are expected to combine uniform, good physicochemical stability with low viscosity and flowability. Polyol fatty acid esters are often used as viscosity adjusters in the production of pearlizing concentrates. They are used in combination with anionic, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactant mixtures, not only the dermatological and mucous membrane compatibility of these mixtures, but also ecotoxicological aspects having been taken into consideration for some time now.
European Patents EP 0581193 B1 and EP 0568848 B1 disclose flowable concentrated pearlizing formulations containing large quantities of fatty acid glycol esters and betaines as zwitterionic surfactants. Fatty alcohol alkoxylates are used as nonionic surfactants.
International patent application WO 96/21711 also describes pearlizing concentrates containing nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants. The nonionic surfactants are necessarily fatty alcohol ethoxylates. However, fatty alcohol ethoxylates are ecotoxicolocially problematic on account of their toxicity to fish and aquatic organisms.
Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was to provide new pearlizing concentrates with a very content of active substances which would be distinguished by good environmental compatibility, high dermatological compatibility, a low content of emulsifiers and improved processability coupled with high stability and comparable performance in regard to the brilliance of the pearlescence.